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Drawing from his Middle Eastern origins just
like his yankee heritage, 25 year old Tawfik Mounayer cleverly avoids
the pitfalls of the ornamental and the obvious cultural stereotype.
Born in Palestine and raised in New York, this graduate of the Parsons
School of Design released his first collection, Audition,
in Autumn 2000. Ultra feminine, this first show instantly reinvigorated
the concept of American sportswear, paying hommage to the pioneering
work of the designer Claire McCardell as well as Yves Saint Laurent,
his other inspiration. Two collections then followed in which details
and eras were elegantly dispersed: 80s shoulder pads and leggings,
postmodern asymmetries, Victorian collars and armholes
Far
from a forbidding exercise in fashion history, Mounayer dusts off
these stylistic totems, culturally assimiliated, to oddly amalgamate
them. He also shows a taste for sexy lines and a sophisticated use
of colour. More rational, his latest collection refined his interpretation
of classic sportswear. Variations in grey, enveloping capes, flannel
or jersey dresses knotted at the waist and inlaid with crocheted
artisanal motifs. This new generation, which for a longtime was
crushed by the unshakeable foundations of American style, today
is calmly swallowed up in the breach created by Jeremy Scott and
Andre Walker. Not needing to go in to exile however, this new breed
testifys to the arrival of the label Made in USA.
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